What I see and What I wish to see...: Travelling Solo: Elephanta Caves

I have now been in Mumbai for a cumulative period of almost 8 months. Even though I have family and friends, I have had the liberty and opportunity to live alone. I admit that hasn't been very pleasant experience all through. To stop relying on other people's times and schedules I gave up and decided to explore this city alone.

My first solo trip was to Elephanta Caves. Ancient stone carved Hindu caves, Elephanta is an hour's boat ride away from the Gateway of India, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai. The entire location of the Gateway of India is like getting transferred to the England of yore. Completely built in Gothic architecture, the south Mumbai lanes deserve a post of their own. Ride to Elephanta caves costs 150INR in a deluxe boat and covers a return trip to the island. Since time flies by at the island and I am still a Delhi girl at heart, I'd boarded an 11am ferry leaving Gateway and returned well in time by 4pm. That I'd say was very smart of me! :D

The boat ride was spent in silence admiring the open seas. Coming from the land locked part of India, the openness of the endless ocean still fascinates me. Big ships and trawlers still get curious stares from me. And both were endlessly supplied on the way to Elephanta. It was also interesting to note the riches of Mumbai parked safely in the ocean-the personal yatches of the richy rich! Ok so it may not be as classy or as jam packed as the French Riviera but it was good to see some for myself. Between the container rigs and the naval setup, the personal wealth of a few individuals gleamed like tacky baubles.

Landing at the Elephanta caves, one has to jump over, pass through and hold on to thick ropes, old tyres and previously parked boats, not in that order though. Covered with barnacles, the landing leads up to the walkway that further leads to the steps rising up to the caves. A small toy-train ride costs INR 20 and saves you the walk in the hot burning sun. Hats and caps of all kinds were available but one is obviously paying the premium for buying them there. I stuck to my scarf and sun glasses. My ever handy water bottle proved its value over and over again during the trip.

Climbing the stairs was not easy. I am not the most physically fit person around and the climb didn't help. Shops lining the side have idle shopkeepers that made me more conscious of being fat than fit people in a gym. In short, their stares kept me going. reaching the top hafting and panting, I kept going. At the entrance, a board caught my attention that advertised Government Guides that were available for free. Upon inquiring I was told that the guard inside would point me to the correct person. I couldn't be happier.

I entered the ancient temple and felt dwarfed. The skill, the imagination and the scale, it all overawes you. Most of it was destroyed and disfigured by the invading Portuguese. What remains are faceless figures and tiny details that even today help archeologists identify the carvings. My hunt for the guide didn't start very well since the private guides would not allow the guards to point out the free one. I persisted and he relented. After a small self tour and guess-who game with myself, I finally met a young lady who was my guide! A student of history at the University of Mumbai, she was a volunteer who spent 5hours a week at Elephanta giving people like me a crash course in Hindu carvings.

What she taught me was very basic but very helpful. Since most carvings have been destroyed, it is next to impossible to identify the Gods and their avatars by their faces. Instead they are identified by their vehicles and their accessories! So a God in the background with a bird underneath is Vishnu! A mouse makes it Ganesh! I don't remember much but back then it made very logical sense! She also knew the stories/myths that related to each of the carvings and the was very keen to explain the eco system of the island. Self sustaining, it has no source of fresh water except the rains! She showed us the natural filtering process of the rock cuts caves and the underground pool that keeps the entire island alive.

I think I shall visit again. With people and food this time.